Sunday, 22 June 2014

Arduino Case for Prusa i3 MK2

This is a simple RAMPS 1.4 case drawn in Freecad.
The top locates a 40mm Fan.
The bottom is just open, so air and wires are free to exit.
The primary problem I was trying to solve was the RAMPS fan causing a draft across the printing bed. This does the job nicely and it protects against knocks/dust etc.
Two parts, the part which screws down with the RAMPS1.4 board to the Prusa i3. The otherpart is the simple case which hooks onto the 1st part.

*UPDATE MK2*
After printing new plastic parts from:
https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3

The clearance between my x motor and the Arduino was not sufficient so the motor would crunch into the case with every Z axis move.

So I printed a new ArduinoMountPlate (ArduinoMountMK2.stl), this ensures that there is enough clearance between the x motor and the case. The original ArduinoCase is compatible.
I have also done away with the little legs for attaching the two parts together, these were too thin and broke, I now use the power of elastic bands! works great.

UPDATED the ArduinoCaseMK2.
I got rid of its weak little legs too.

 See:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:167976




Arduino Case for Prusa i3 MK2

This is a simple RAMPS 1.4 case drawn in Freecad.
The top locates a 40mm Fan.
The bottom is just open, so air and wires are free to exit.
The primary problem I was trying to solve was the RAMPS fan causing a draft across the printing bed. This does the job nicely and it protects against knocks/dust etc.
Two parts, the part which screws down with the RAMPS1.4 board to the Prusa i3. The otherpart is the simple case which hooks onto the 1st part.
 
*UPDATE MK2*
After printing new plastic parts from:
https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3

The clearance between my x motor and the Arduino was not sufficient so the motor would crunch into the case with every Z axis move.

So I printed a new ArduinoMountPlate (ArduinoMountMK2.stl), this ensures that there is enough clearance between the x motor and the case. The original ArduinoCase is compatible.
I have also done away with the little legs for attaching the two parts together, these were too thin and broke, I now use the power of elastic bands! works great.

UPDATED the ArduinoCaseMK2.
I got rid of its weak little legs too.

 See:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:167976

Thursday, 5 June 2014

Layers Layers Layers when things are not hot enough.

Printing with a new Orange colloured PLA.

Normally print around 180 - 195°C, this needed 205 to get the layers to stick and be twist resistant.



Saturday, 17 May 2014

J-Head Nozzle Wear

After 9 months of printing, close inspection of the 0.35mm JHead on a Prusa i3 printer shows considerable wear. The affects are not visible in print quality which are still good however its becoming harder and harder to get filament to stick to a heated bed. When printing the first layer as the printer puts down a parallel pass of filament the head pushes the neighboring filament a little, if the first layer height is not adjusted just right the piece has trouble sticking to the hotbed and warping of thin sections away from the bed is highly likely.

With a new Jhead the first layer height is much more tolerant of slight errors.